Things to Know Before Coming to Peru

The following are excerpts from a handbook written by Krishna Reddy, a 2006 Scholar. This handbook was made to give to new scholars, and provides alot of need-to-know information. Please feel free to comment, add to, or discuss any of the topics in this thread and to make it a better resource for incoming scholars.

Living/Housing Issues:

NEIGHBORHOODS

Lima is a sprawling metropolis.  Some compare its layout to that of Los Angeles, in that there are many distinct neighborhoods/municipalities within the metropolitan area.

The most popular neighborhoods for foreign students and fellows to live in have been Miraflores and San Isidro.  Miraflores is a bustling area with many shops, restaurants, and cafes, as well as pubs and clubs to frequent at night.  Some businesses and embassies are also based in Miraflores.  It is probably the most popular neighborhood among gringos – you will see many roaming the streets here.  In Miraflores one has the conveniences of supermarkets, movie theaters, and public transportation all within easy walking distance.  It is a relatively safe neighborhood, though petty theft does occur.  Miraflores is right by the ocean, and there is a nice trail and parks along the ocean (the Malecon area) where many people run or bike.  It tends to be a bit cooler and cloudier than some other parts of Lima during the winter months, but there is a nice ocean breeze to cool you down during the summer months.  With so much activity in Miraflores, there’s usually something to do, even if it’s just wandering around.

San Isidro is a large municipality adjacent to Miraflores.  It is home to some of Lima’s elite.  It is quieter than Miraflores, which has its pros and cons – on one hand, there is less noise in San Isidro; on the other hand, there is not as much activity, and it is not as easily walkable as Miraflores – supermarkets and other stores may be a bit farther to reach.  San Isidro is home to many small parks and a huge golf course (Bob Gilman’s apartment is right on the edge of this golf course).  There are many restaurants and some swanky pubs and clubs in this neighborhood.  Many businesses (including the financial district) and embassies are based here.  Public transportation is fairly accessible.  Like Miraflores, it’s a relatively safe area.  In general, you may see more families living in San Isidro, whereas you may see more twenty- and thirty-somethings in Miraflores.  San Isidro is less “touristy” than Miraflores.

Barranco is another nice neighborhood just south of Miraflores on the coast.  It is fairly quiet and quite unique in Lima in that it maintains a bohemian feel.  There aren’t as many big chain stores here.  Barranco comes alive at night as the home of Lima’s most vibrant nightlife – there are many pubs, clubs, and peñas frequented by Limeños.  Some foreigners have found beautiful apartments and houses in Barranco.  It is a tranquil haven within Lima; however, it’s a bit farther than Miraflores and San Isidro from other parts of the city, and you may have to go to Miraflores to run errands.

San Miguel is home to the Prisma office as well as the famed Gringo House, which is a <10 minute walk from Prisma.  Many Limeños live in this neighborhood, but you won’t see many foreigners.  There is a huge shopping complex – the Plaza San Miguel – and a movie theater but other than that not much to do in San Miguel.  You will probably find yourself going to Miraflores, San Isidro, and Barranco in your free time.  The advantages of San Miguel are that it’s less expensive than those neighborhoods, and, if you’re working at Prisma most days, you have a very easy commute.

Other reasonable residential neighborhoods include Surco, San Borja, Jesus Maria, and Pueblo Libre.  Housing will likely be cheaper here, but your social life would be substantially facilitated by living in Miraflores, San Isidro, or Barranco.

FINDING AN APARTMENT

Finding an apartment in Lima can be a challenging endeavor, depending on what you are looking for.  Before you arrive in Lima, contact people whom you know are there or have been there recently (previous or current students and fellows, Marjori Meza in the Prisma office) to find out about possible openings.  You can also check websites like Craig’s List, Expatperu.com, www.acap-peru.org (American and Canadian Association of Peru), and www.livinginperu.com.  Some of these also have email listserves to which you can sign up to receive info on housing, activities, etc.

Once in Lima, you can start by looking at the classifieds section of the El Comercio newspaper.  The Sunday edition is the best to research.  Apartments for rent are also listed on El Comercio’s website.  Most of the contact information you see in the classifieds will be for corredores (real estate agents); a few will be for the owners of the apartments.  The corredores and owners may also be showing, or about to show, other apartments that are not listed.  Generally they will not charge you for their services if contacted in this way.  There are some other real estate agents whom you could contact directly, and who would show you various apartments (often very nice apartments, though on the pricey side); these agents might charge a fee.

Another approach is to walk around neighborhoods where you are interested in living, and look for signs saying “Se Aquila” (For Rent) on buildings.  You can also inquire with the doormen at some of the apartment buildings. 

Once you’ve found a place that you like, it’s a good idea to leave a deposit (“garantía”) – can be any amount depending on what the corredor/owner wants, $20-200 – to hold the apartment.  No amount of verbal assurance (saying that you really like the place and that you want to take it, etc.) will guarantee that you will get the apartment.  As in most cities, money talks in Lima.  When you give the garantía, get a receipt.  It’s ideal to meet and to give the garantía to the owner rather than the corredor, because the owner may have hired several corredores to show the apartment, and it’s possible that another tenant has already been found via one of the other corredores.  However, if not possible to give the garantía directly to the owner, you can give it to the corredor provided that you know that he/she has spoken with the owner and the owner will agree to hold the apartment for you.  If you change your mind later, you may not be able to get back the garantía, though it may be worth a try.

After this, generally you will be asked to return to the apartment within a few days to meet with the owner and to sign the lease.  Remember that nothing is guaranteed until you sign the lease and are handed the keys.  The garantía will usually suffice to hold the apartment for you until you sign the lease, so sign the lease as soon as possible if you are really interested in the place.  Some of us have had experiences where the owner agreed to give the apartment to us, but changed his/her mind after a day or two for whatever reason.  This has only happened when we haven’t left a garantía.  

Finding an apartment to your liking, as in any city, can be a challenging and frustrating undertaking.  Some people may find a place very quickly, while it may take a month for others.  It’s a good idea to first decide on one or two neighborhoods where you would want to live, and then look for apartments there.  Take your time and see at least a couple of apartments so that you know what’s available and what the prices are.  However, if you find a place that you really like at a reasonable price, don’t wait too long – leave a garantía because someone else may quickly grab the place.

TYPES OF HOUSING AND PRICES

There are both apartments and houses in Lima, though most gringo students and fellows will end up living in apartments, if not in the Gringo House in San Miguel.  Apartments come in many sizes, either furnished or unfurnished.  In general, you can roughly divide apartment buildings into newer buildings and older buildings.  The newer buildings have more modern apartments, though they tend to be smaller than the apartments in older buildings.

You can choose to live by yourself in a 1-2 bedroom apartment, or you may wish to share an apartment with others.  In Miraflores and San Isidro, a decent, furnished 1-bedroom apartment may cost $250-450 per month (excluding utilities), though there is great variety in prices.  Apartments with a view of the ocean, or those on very posh streets may be more expensive.

When quoting these prices to Peruvian colleagues, many will tell you that the prices are too high.  However, keep in mind that locals may be able to find better deals than gringos because: 1) they may be thinking of neighborhoods that are less expensive than the likes of Miraflores and San Isidro, 2) they are in less of a rush to find an apartment and may have contacts who tip them off on good deals for apartments when the timing is right, 3) they generally look for unfurnished apartments, 4) they can get a better deal by signing a long-term lease.  So don’t get discouraged if you think that you’d be spending more than what your Peruvian colleagues think you should be spending – talk to other gringos, in addition to Peruvians, to get their opinions and experiences with prices of housing.

*From Peru Handbook, written by Krishna Reddy, 2006 Scholar

LEASES

Most apartment owners will ask you to sign a lease.  They may require a minimum length, such as 3, 6, 9, or 12 months.  Sometimes, owners will allow you to have a shorter lease but will charge you more.  Typically, they will ask for one month’s rent in advance, as well as one or two months of rent as a security deposit.  They should give you a copy of the lease to review and sign.  You may want to review the lease with a native Spanish speaker just to make sure that you don’t miss anything.

Important things to ask about include:

-         How much money do I have to pay initially for advance and security deposit?

-         What are the stipulations for return of the security deposit?

-         What happens if something in the apartment is not working properly (appliances, windows, shower, etc.) – who do I contact and who pays?

-         When and how do I pay the rent each month?

-         Does the apartment already have connections for phone, cable, and Internet?

-         Is there a doorman/guard 24 hours a day?

-         Is it OK to have long-term visitors or roommates?

Make sure that you meet the owner of the apartment and get a “read” on this person.  It’s ideal to have good rapport with the owner as this is the person with whom you will be dealing with, NOT the corredor (real estate agent).  Some previous fellows have had major problems with owners not wanting to fix things in the apartment, not returning security deposits, etc.  If the owner seems professional but kind, attentive but not over-bearing, it could make your living situation much more pleasant.

UTILITIES

The cost of utilities is not included in most apartment rents.  Most apartment buildings will charge a “mantenimiento” fee, which goes to pay for doormen and general upkeep of the building.  This fee can be anywhere from $20-60 per month.  Some places will ask you to pay municipal taxes, which go to the municipality for security, cleaners, etc.  These “impuestos” may be about $10 per month.

Internet service is on the pricey side in Peru, though many gringos will tell you that it’s well worth having the convenience of internet at home (for example, for using Skype to call home, as well as all the other wonders of the Internet).  The two big Internet service providers are Speedy (part of Telefónica) and Cable Mágico.  Speedy seems to be the more popular service.  It’s a high-speed DSL service with a router that can be used with or without (wireless) a cable.  There are different speeds at different prices – the Speedy 200 service is the “slowest” service, but it should still be plenty fast for your needs, especially if you have only one computer in the apartment.  The cost is 99 soles per month.  It may be wise to start with this speed, and then upgrade later if you wish.  If there is no existing Internet connection in the apartment, you may have to pay a connection fee and pay for the router, which costs $100-150.  However, keep your eyes open for special offers from Speedy, such as free connection and service upgrade for the first few months of a new contract.  Generally, you have to sign a minimum 6 month contract with Speedy.  Furthermore, you have to pay for a telephone line (with Telefónica) in order to get their Speedy Internet service.  Once it is set up, the Internet service is pretty reliable, though some people have had problems with the wireless component.  It may take a few visits from the Telefónica technicians to configure the service, though there should be no cost for these visits.  For those who do not wish to have Internet service at home, there are plenty of Internet cafés with high-speed connections around Lima.  A few coffee shops also offer wireless access.

Telefónica provides the majority of land telephone lines.  Some gringos have chosen to have a line, while others have declined (remember that you have to have an active line in order to get the Speedy Internet service through Telefónica).  Currently, the cheapest phone plan – the Super Económico – costs about 38 soles per month, and includes 120 minutes of call time per month to other land lines in Lima, as well as free incoming calls, and a voicemail service.  If you surpass your monthly minutes, you can still use a prepaid phone card like the 147 from your land phone; this card is also useful for calling to mobile phones or phones outside of Lima, as well as for calling from public phones.  Because of the prohibitively expensive cost of calls made from and to mobile phones, you may find it very useful to have a land phone in your apartment.  You can contact Teléfonica for free from most public phones and land phones by dialing 104.

Cable TV is available through Cable Mágico.  Some channels are in English (usually with Spanish subtitles) and some are in Spanish.  There are 3 different plans available.  The basic plan includes about 40 channels (including the basic Peruvian channels, several channels showing international movies and series, CNN in English and CNN in Spanish, and Fox Sports) and costs $18 per month.  The premium plan includes about 80 channels (all those in the basic plan, plus BBC, ESPN, and many movie channels like HBO and Cinemax) and costs $35 per month.  Note: for fans of American football, ESPN (with Spanish commentary) shows live NFL games every Sunday night and Monday night, as well as some playoff games.  It also shows some NBA and NCAA football and basketball games.  You can contact Cable Mágico by calling 0800-11-800.

Electricity (“luz”) is usually not included in the rent.  This can cost $10-20 per month for a person living solo, depending on usage.

You will receive bills for Internet, phone, cable, and electricity in the mail.  The bills can be paid at a variety of places, including some supermarkets and pharmacies, but must be paid in cash.

Telephone Access:

MOBILE PHONES

The prices of calling to and from mobile phones are surprisingly expensive in Peru.  However, many people still find mobile phones to be useful.  The two major providers are Claro and Movistar (Telefónica).  They are fierce competitors and often have special offers, such as a certain amount of money in free calls when you sign up.  But despite the competition, prices are still quite high.

There are two basic types of plans to choose from.  In the prepaid (“prepago”) plans, you add credit to your account, from which money is deducted each time you make a call or send a message.  Most gringos have opted for these prepaid plans.  In an example of one prepaid plan from Claro, calls to other Claro mobile phones cost 1.40 soles/min, calls to land lines cost 2.30 soles/min, and calls to non-Claro mobile phones cost 2.60 soles/min (these are approximate prices for Lima phones).  Text messages nationwide cost 10 céntimos per message.  So, many people use the phones primarily for text messaging and only occasionally for calls.  There is no charge for incoming calls or messages, and no difference in cost by time of day or day of week.  Movistar price plans are similar.  You may want to find out what company your friends/colleagues use.

The other type of plan is the postpaid (“postpago”).  Here, you are charged a fixed amount each month and get a reduced rate for calls.  The initial cost of the phone is usually less if you sign up for a postpaid plan.  This may be a good option if you are going to be making LOTS of calls.  However, if you think you won’t be making many calls and will primarily use text messages, the prepaid plans are probably a better option.  Also, there is more red tape involved in signing up for a postpaid plan – non-Peruvian citizens have to present a variety of documents, and you may have to sign a 12-month minimum contract.

CALLING HOME

Web-based phone services have made international calling easier and cheaper.  One such service is Skype (www.skype.com).  You can download the Skype program and set up an account for free.  You can call computer-to-computer to another Skype user anywhere in the world for free.  You can also call from your computer to land phones and mobile phones in most places in the world for a fairly cheap rate.   For example, calls to land phones and mobile phone in the USA or to land phones in Western Europe cost 2-3 US cents per minute.  A headset can help the clarity of the call.  Yahoo Voice offers a service similar to that of Skype.

For those without easy computer access, you can purchase a Tarjeta 147 or Hola Peru phone card to make calls from land phones and public phones.  Using these cards, a call from a land phone in Lima to the USA costs about 25 Peruvian céntimos per minute.

COMMUTING

The traffic is among the biggest downsides of Lima.  Since the city is so sprawled out, it can take quite a long time to get from home to work or other destinations.  Unfortunately, there is no train or subway system in the city.  If you do not have a car (and most students and fellows do not), then you have to rely on taxis and buses to get around.

Taxis are ubiquitous in Lima and are quite cheap compared to taxis in North America and Europe.  For example, a ride in a taxi hailed off the street from Miraflores to Universidad Peruana Cayetano Heredia (Cayetano) in San Martin de Porres (about 30 minutes) will cost 10-14 soles.  A ride within Miraflores will cost 3-4 soles.  There are no meters in taxis in Lima - prices have to be negotiated before starting; bargaining is very common.  While most taxi drivers are friendly and will take you to your destination without a problem, there have been reports of theft involving taxi drivers.  So, it’s a good idea to go with a taxi driver who looks reputable – ask to see his taxi driver ID (a blue/purple card that has his photo and DNI number), look for a SETAME sticker in the front windshield, etc.  You should always lock the doors while in a taxi and keep the windows rolled up, especially when going to areas that are known for theft.  Also, if you have a bag containing a laptop or other valuables, put it on the floor by your feet, not on the seat or your lap – there have been incidences of thieves breaking the window and snatching bags.  Some people call a taxi company for rides (especially when traveling alone at night and for airport runs) – these are generally considered to be safer than taxis off the street, but they are more expensive.  One good company is Taxi Mobil, tel. 422-3322.

The costs of taking a taxi to and from work every day can add up, so some may want to consider buses instead.  All buses in Lima are run by private companies – there is no municipal bus system, and no map of all the bus routes.  It takes some time to figure out where the various buses go.

There are 3 basic forms of buses you will see: first, large buses that have the same form as school buses in the USA.  All the buses that go along the Vía Expresa are of this type.  Second, there are big combis, which are the size of big vans or mini-buses.  Third, there are small combis, which are similar in size to mini-vans (though they have seating for about 17 people and sometimes some standers!).  On the side of buses and combis you will see the names of main avenues that the vehicles travel on.  However, you may not know along which streets it travels on in between.  Ask someone who has been in Lima for a while about which bus or combi to take to your destination.  And keep in mind that some combis take more direct routes than others, and that the drivers and cobradores (the people to whom you pay the fare) are trying very hard to fill their vehicle, so they may not be upfront in telling you which exact route they are taking.  Also, be careful when getting on and off the combis as the drivers often do not bring the vehicle to a complete stop when passengers are getting on/off.  A ride on a bus or combi typically costs 1.00-1.50 soles.  So, they are cheaper than taxis, but the ride may take longer.  For example, a 25-30 minute door-to-door taxi ride from Miraflores to Cayetano takes 45-60 minutes on a combi/bus, plus a few minutes walking to and from the bus stop and waiting for the bus.

BANKING

It is difficult for foreign citizens to open a bank account in Peru.  Most gringo students/fellows have just used the bank account from their home country.  ATMs are abundant in Lima.  Note that you are likely to be charged a fee for each transaction by both your home bank and the ATM’s bank (for example, Bank of America charges $5 for each transaction made at a foreign ATM, and Lima ATMs charge about 4-7 soles).

Citibank has branches and ATMs in Lima.  You can open an account at a Citibank branch in the USA (for those participating in the Fogarty orientation at the NIH, there is a Citibank branch on Wisconsin Avenue in Bethesda, about a 5 minute walk from the Clarion Hotel).  One recent offer from the Bethesda Citibank was a no-fee checking account with ATM card/Mastercard.  With this account, transactions at Citibank ATMs in Peru are free of charge, while those at non-Citibank ATMs in Peru incur a 3% transaction fee.  However, with a Citibank USA account one can use only the ATMs at Citibanks in Lima and not the branch services for making deposits, withdrawals, etc.

At ATMs in Peru, you can withdraw money in either soles or US dollars.

You may find a credit card useful.  Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted in Peru.  Many USA banks charge a fee for transactions made abroad.  Capital One does not charge a foreign transaction fee for some of its credit cards.

Prior to leaving your home country, call the banks where your checking/savings account and credit cards are based to inform them that you will be using your card in Peru and to inquire about fees for foreign transactions.  Without this prior notification, some banks will automatically freeze accounts, as a safety precaution, when they see a transaction being made in another country.  Also, write down the contact information of the bank in case your card gets lost or stolen.

VISAS

Citizens of the USA do not need to apply for a visa prior to entering Peru.  Upon entering Peru, your passport and white immigration form (given to you on the airplane) will be stamped and a number written on them, indicating validity of 30, 60, or 90 days for a tourist visa.  Usually you will be given 90 days, although the process is sometimes random.  If you are given less than 90 days, insist on the 90 day stamp.

The 90 day validity means that you are supposed to leave Peru within 90 days.  You have a few options with regard to this limit:

-         Leave the country within 90 days and then return.  You might return to your home country or take advantage of your time in South America and visit a country neighboring Peru.  For those visiting Puno and the Lake Titicaca area, consider a trip to Copacabana in Bolivia (about 3 hours by bus from Puno).  It’s a nice lakeside town with easy access to the Isla del Sol.  Upon re-entering Peru, your passport will be re-stamped with a 90 day pass, provided you have spent at least 24 hours outside of Peru.

-         Get your visa renewed at the immigration office in Lima (see section on “Visa Extensions”).

-         If you have not renewed your visa and are leaving Peru beyond the expiration date of your tourist visa, you can pay a fine upon leaving at the airport or border crossing.  The amount of the fine is not clear – some say that it is $1 per day, while others have been asked for $20 or more and/or “informal” payments.

Make sure that you keep the white immigration form with your passport.  When exiting the country, you will be asked to provide this form.  There is a fine for not presenting the form. 

VISA EXTENSIONS

The immigration office in Lima is located at Avenida España 734 in Breña.  Buses traveling along Av. Alfonso Ugarte will pass over Av. España.  Get off there and walk about four blocks to the immigration office.  You need to bring your passport and another form of ID, (such as a driver's license).

Here is some information from the South American Explorers: 

WHERE TO GO:
Visa extensions can be done in Lima, Cusco, Puno, Puerto Maldonado and Iquitos. Hours of attention are 9 am to 1:30 pm Monday thru Friday. Lines are usually shorter in the early morning, and it should not take you more than 2 hours to extend your visa.

COST:
One-month visa extensions cost $20 (USD) per month, plus 25 soles for processing fees. Extensions of the tourist visa can be purchased for up to three months. Extensions can be purchased on a monthly basis, or can be purchased all at once on your visit to the immigration office.

WHAT TO DO:
Go to the immigration office (addresses below) and show your passport to enter the building. Pick up the Visa Extension form at the information desk on the first floor (these can also be downloaded from the Peruvian Migration and Naturalization Website www.digemin.gob.pe, "Visa Temporal, Visa Residente")
In Lima, visa extensions are handled on the third floor. Go to the window that says "Prorrogas Residencia" and present your passport and tourist visa card. The official will give you a receipt for $20. At this time, you will need to go down to the first floor, make a copy of your visa and passport. You can then pay for the extension at the Banco de la Nacion, located down the corridor from the copy machine. There may be long lines for the bank.  Make sure you pay TWO fees while at the bank to avoid having to go back and wait in line again.  The $20 to renew your visa and the 25 soles fee.  Fill out the form and return to the same teller on the third floor. Give the official your stamped receipt and your completed form. After this you will be asked to wait for your passport and extended visa, which shouldn't take longer than 20 minutes.

EXPIRED VISAS:
Expired visas are subject to a $20 fine upon departure or extension. Whether your visa is one day over due or 30 days over due, you will pay $20 all the same. It will cost another $20 to renew your expired visa, and you will only be given one month from THE DAY THAT YOUR VISA EXPIRED, not from the day you pay the fine. When crossing borders on expired visas, be wary of officials overcharging you (it should only be $20), but be aware that if you are planning on re-entering on the same border, you will be dealing with the same officials. In other words, the nicer you are the more likely they are to give you the maximum number of days upon re-entry.